Make a Stop in Bath, New York
The town of Bath in Steuben County has plenty of reasons you should add this little Southern Tier town to your list of day trips.
by Chris Clemens
In the lower-west portion of the Finger Lakes, in a section sometimes called the Southern Tier, lies Bath, New York. It is the county seat of Steuben County and easily accessible from Route 86. Both the town and the village are small. Most people driving by consider Bath only a quick spot to stop for a bathroom break or pass altogether.
Those people are wrong.
I recently spent part of a day touring around Bath with Ron Smith, the current Town Supervisor. He said he, “didn’t want any credit”, but I’m going to go against his wishes. I’m gonna give it to him anyway.
Ron, as well as many of the others I’ve encountered while visiting on different occasions have all been really hospitable. Any scene you’ve ever watched in a movie about an aging, quaint town where locals sit together at the local breakfast counter drinking coffee and telling stories of catching that day’s biggest fish could easily have been filmed right in Bath. Everyone I’ve encountered on my visits is happy to share their region with visitors.
Here’s why I’m going to recommend you make a trip to explore the historic Steuben County town.
History Of Bath, NY
The spot where Bath resides can trace its roots back to England. Purportedly one of the wealthiest landowners in Great Britain, Sir William Pulteney, began to expand his holdings in the new lands of America in the late 1700’s.
He struck deals that would found regions in Western New York known today as Henrietta, Caledonia, and Bath. From the Pulteney Estate, the land would later be purchased by the town’s official founder. Charles Williamson purchased what is now Bath, New York on April 11, 1792.
Since a lot of this was farmland, the Steuben County Fair began in 1819 as a community event highlighting the region’s agriculture. Today, that fair is the longest continuously operating county fair in the United States.
Local Industry
Manufacturing plants like the Babcock Ladder Company, Westinghouse Electric Corporation, and Lane Pipe all helped the region grow throughout the 1900’s. As changing manufacturing trends have forced towns to reinvent themselves, Bath has found an economic stability with the Bath V.A. Medical Center, two enormous RV camping retailers, and a vast acreage dedicated to agricultural occupations.
Places To Eat In Bath
When you first exit the Southern Tier Expressway, you’ll be inundated by big name chains like Taco Bell and McDonald’s.
This is the spot that unfortunate souls who dare not explore probably get turned away. If they only continued, they’d discover that the village has a whole bunch of really wonderful, local options with a small town charm.
The Chat-A-Whyle Restaurant has been a mainstay in the village for as long as most locals can remember. Joyce Loza is the current owner, and has been working behind the counter since she first took ownership twenty-five years ago. At first glance, it will appear like a common diner, and in many ways it is.
But, if you’re in the know, you are already craving one of their sticky buns. This isn’t me just saying, “Oh, they’re really great”. These sticky buns are known throughout Western New York and absolutely worth taking note of. The Chat-A-Whyle bakes them in-house daily, along with a bunch of other really great items.
Don’t pass these up.
The Liberty Street Pub serves up a menu of great bar food that is a favorite among locals and the Betty Kay Bake Shop has an outstanding selection of cookies, cakes, donuts, and breads. I was also pleasantly surprised to see that they serve Gimme! Coffee out of Ithaca.
Most recently, Restaurant 209 has been creating a buzz with their lineup of sandwiches, salads, and a pretty great quiche.
Sites/Sights
I mentioned the Bath V.A. Center earlier as an economic support to the region. The park-like complex is enormous. It feels like a park, but it’s lined with some really beautiful buildings, chapels, and a museum (which was closed during my most recent visit).
Most notably, the complex is home to the National Cemetery. First dedicated in 1879, the cemetery forever memorializes those who have served in our nation’s military. The landscape is both beautifully serene and monumentally sobering.
My first visit to Bath was a few years ago specifically to visit one of the state’s most underrated gems. The First Presbyterian Church of Bath has the honor of being one of the few remaining sanctuaries entirely designed by Louis Comfort Tiffany.
There is plenty of Tiffany stained glass around New York, but there are only a couple wall-to-wall, floor-to-ceiling sanctuaries designed by the iconic artist to be found in the entire United States. The church regularly offers tours which I strongly recommend attending. The lead docent, Helen Brink, is an absolute wealth of knowledge and a pleasure to hang out with!
The church’s iconic sanctuary is the work of Tiffany, but was funded by Ira Davenport in remembrance of his brother John. The two brothers made a tremendous impact on Bath and the surrounding region as wealthy benefactors.
Discovering their very-off-the-beaten-path historic resting place in a collection of pines was a great way to connect with the town’s heritage. While standing at the cemetery, an upward glance reveals a locale with one of the best views in the Southern Tier.
Mossy Bank Park
During the 1960’s, a forest fire began on the crest of a hilltop overlooking the region where Bath lies. Because the site of the fire was so far from main roadways, getting equipment to extinguish the blaze was nearly impossible. As a result, the flames burned on for days.
Makeshift access roads were built just so firefighters could reach the burning section of forest.
The charred remains left a clearing right to the edge of the hilltop. Literally like a phoenix rising from the ashes, the Village of Bath was granted permission to accept responsibility for the property. They in turn created Mossy Bank Park.
Today, the park gives visitors access to a gorgeous panoramic view of the town and surrounding region. The spot is so picturesque, a bald eagle has nested on the hillside. It can often be seen taking in the same majestic views that visitors get. It’s a short drive from the village, but one you absolutely should not miss.
Visit Bath, New York
The village is filled with wonderful walking opportunities that pass historic hotels, government offices, the town square, and a myriad of businesses.
If you’re a fan of historic landmark signs, you’ll find a few particularly interesting ones scattered about. There’s also some really fun old “ghost signs” on buildings, a throwback to days when painting advertising directly on buildings was a common practice.
Those of you who know me personally know that I get a bit excited about religious history.
I made it a point on this trip to seek out a tip from a friend to find a ‘tiny church’. It turns out, the structure at the intersection of Robbins Road and Harrisburg Hollow is not a tiny church at all, but rather an effort to preserve the last remnants of the Methodist Episcopal Church that once stood near the corner.
The church was built in 1891, but suffered a fire (I couldn’t find what year). In that fire, most of it was destroyed. This cool little roadside find is a remaining steeple that survived the fire. It now rests for passersby to remember the church. Obviously, I stopped to snag some photos, and my pal Dennis snagged photos of me snagging the photos!
Whether it’s a famous sticky bun you’re after, or an eagle’s eye view of the Southern Tier, Bath should be high on your list to explore soon. While you’re there, tell them I say hello!
Chris Clemens is the Founder/Publisher of Exploring Upstate. From his hometown in Rochester, he spends as much time as possible connecting with the history, culture, and places that make Upstate New York a land of discovery. Follow him on Twitter at @cpclemens
April 11, 2017 @ 10:57 pm
Thank you for finding the beauty in Upstate NY through small towns that have helped make us who we are today. I really enjoyed this after growing up in Bath. I miss the sticky buns and sugar waffles from the state fair. =)
April 12, 2017 @ 8:23 am
Yes I love the sugar waffles. Amazon has sugar waffle irons- thinking of getting one…
April 12, 2017 @ 7:35 pm
You are braver than I to own a waffle iron and have access to them whenever you want! It’s better for me to have to leave the house to have them.
April 12, 2017 @ 7:33 pm
Thank you for reading, Lauren! Glad I love the small towns in our region and strongly believe we should all be exploring them more often.
April 12, 2017 @ 8:01 am
Great read! I didn’t know about Mossy Bank Park until last summer! Can’t wait to visit the 3rd Presbyterian Church – didn’t know about the Tiffany connection! So sorry you didn’t have a nice sunny day – but that’s sort of a typical for a Western NY spring! I grew up in Almond. Have you chronicled Angelica? Rich with history and a beautiful, albeit tiny, village!
April 12, 2017 @ 7:35 pm
Funny you mention Angelica here. I literally JUST read some history of the town a couple days ago. Quite an intriguing back story that makes me want to visit.
And yeah, a sunny day would’ve been nice, but I’ve come to appreciate the appearance of all our seasons, even if they do all take place in a single day!
April 14, 2017 @ 9:24 am
My wife and I were Married in the 3 Rd Presbyterian church. in 1960. Our two daughters graduated from H C in Bath. and yes we have had the sticky buns and know Joyce well. we go back to Bath at least once a year. We know the County Clerk and a few other friends and people there. As kids we roller skated where there is a bowling now. A lot of memories of Bath,N.Y.
May 7, 2019 @ 3:18 am
Great post, I am really excited to have found your blog!
I live tiny churches, and I think my favourite one so far is kind of similar to this– a tiny roadside chapel in a northern Ontario (Canada) town made from the steeple of a church that burned down. Can you go inside the tiny church in Bath?
May 7, 2019 @ 7:40 am
Hey Jessica! I know that church in Ontario!
The one in Bath is on private property. If I recall correctly from a few years ago, I tried the handle and it was locked. But, there are windows, and there was nothing inside of note that would make getting inside an important experience.
If you’re in New York though, you’ve got a few options for getting inside tiny churches:
The Little White Church in Great Valley is always unlocked.
Cross Island Chapel in Oneida can be open, but it requires contacting the owners. This post has info (it’s the second one listed).
The Treehouses of Geneseo also have a small chapel. (That post doesn’t show it because I visited before he added the chapel, but it’s there!)
April 12, 2017 @ 10:29 am
My wife’s family is from the Hornell area and I’ve been to Bath but only to the National Cemetery for funerals in my wife’s family. I had no idea that Bath was such a charming little town. I will make a point of exploring it the next time we’re in New York.
April 12, 2017 @ 7:36 pm
Hornell is a wonderful location too! Though it’s yet to appear on this blog. Maybe it’ll happen soon. Enjoy your exploring, John!
April 12, 2017 @ 3:23 pm
Ha..I grew up in Bath. The owner if Chat A While is my Step Aunt. Both of my brothers worked there for many years..and yes, I crave the sticky buns.
Mossy Bank also has a jump off for hang gliders, amazing trails, playground and picnic area. Many summers spent exploring and “trying to get lost”. All of the paths end up back at the picnic area..so it didn’t work. Lol. There are also a few lean to structures off of the playground. Truly a great place for kids to explore and utilize their imagination. The drive in is a bit crazy. One car width dirt paths and drop offs. Take it slow and be patient..its worth it.
April 12, 2017 @ 7:38 pm
I know the road you mean…. For anyone else reading and looking for tips, the town has now built a much nicer, fully paved, full access roadway to the entrance of the park. And, Kristine is correct here…worth it!!
April 14, 2017 @ 3:46 pm
Love Bath. This article brought back fond memories from when my family lived there.
April 17, 2017 @ 9:37 am
I also grew up in Bath and my dad was the handyman for the Chat-A-Whyle for many years, I remember the night it caught fire and you could see the flames from blocks away. So glad they rebuilt and for the effort they are making to maintain the town’s history. Thanks for articles like these, as young children growing up in a town like this you didn’t always appreciate what you had around at the time, can’t wait to go back and tour the Presbyterian church where my sister was married when i was too young to appreciate the beauty of the building and also for giving me a reason to visit some of the surrounding towns and city’s! Thanks for this trip down memory lane
June 18, 2018 @ 7:34 pm
Just completed reading Arch Merrill’s Stagecoach Towns (1947), which, of course, has a chapter on Bath. I want to take a tour some day of all the towns he mentions. Thank you for a wonderful photo of the church with the Tiffany connection. I didn’t know about that.
December 13, 2018 @ 11:17 am
Makes me long for that beauty. Grad of Avoca 1969. Missing you big A.
April 28, 2019 @ 1:05 pm
Thank you, Chris, for this heartwarming description of my hometown. Bath is, indeed, a gem. Thank you for seeing it as such. Anne Keddy, lifelong resident and Mossy Bank Park Committee chairperson
May 9, 2019 @ 11:09 am
Thanks for the info!
I actually live in Ontario, but nowhere near that little church! I am from southern Ontario, less than two hours’ drive from the Niagara region borders, so it’s great to get some ideas about things to see/do in New York state! 🙂
January 21, 2020 @ 12:57 pm
My daughter and I found Bath NY on our way back from a Canadian road trip and stopped for gas and a bite. What an amazing little throwback to yesteryear and we had the best meal I’ve had in years at a small mom and pop restaurant (the name escapes me unfortunately). I absolutely fell in love with the town, so much so, I’ve been researching real estate there, as I’m thinking of moving there when I retire. What a wonderful place, I’m so envious to those who grew up there.
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July 14, 2022 @ 7:41 am
July 2022
Great!! Thanks for the article. I was planning a road-trip somewhere…and this looks exactly what my soul needs